Frequently asked questions

If you haven't played racing games before, start with an arcade racer or a sim-cade. They forgive mistakes and let you get used to the speed, and you can move on to a simulator later.

No. A gamepad is enough to learn the racing line and braking. A wheel makes sense once you realise you want to take racing seriously.

Usually it's braking too late and carrying too much entry speed. Brake earlier than you think you need to, and move the point later gradually.

There's no fixed amount. Regular short sessions on one track do more than occasional long marathons on different ones.

It's the part of a stick's or pedal's travel where the game doesn't respond. A small deadzone removes jitter; one that's too large makes the controls feel laggy.

Usually the racing line goes first, then traction control is gradually reduced. Many players keep ABS on for a long time, and there's nothing wrong with that.

Force feedback should convey what the car is doing without tiring your arms. If the wheel knocks and buzzes on a straight, lower the strength and check the smoothing setting.

You can, but carefully and one setting at a time. In most games the default setup is balanced and works well for learning.

It's a measure of how clean you are in online races. Contact, corner cutting and offs lower it; clean races raise it. It often decides who matchmaking puts you up against.

Make your move when your car is at least partly alongside your rival before the corner. If there's no room, wait for the next chance.

Even in single-player, third-party programs and banned mods can break a service's rules and lead to an account ban. We don't recommend taking the risk.

No. Transferring and selling accounts breaks user agreements, and such accounts are often reclaimed by the original owner or banned.